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December 18, 2007

Checking Your Gauge

If you are like me, as soon as you get your yarn you are anxious to start knitting or crocheting.  The label tells you if you use specific needles your stockinet stitch gauge should so many stitches by so many rows in a four inch swatch.  So, why take the time to test it?  There are three reasons: 

1. The truth is that different people knit and crochet with varying tensions, so the gauge on the label is just an estimate. 
2. Often the main stitch is some pattern rather than stockinet.
3. If you plan to launder your finished garment rather than dry clean it, there is a good chance you will have some shrinkage.  It is important to know just how much.

Okay, so what is the best way to get my gauge?  Since the edges may be knitted looser or tighter than the body of your garment, it is best to actually knit or crochet a 5X5 or even a 6X6 (on bulkier yarns) inch swatch.  Then you will need to launder the swatch in the manner in which you intend to launder your final garment, if there is any chance of shrinkage.  After you have washed and dried the swatch, lay a ruler across the width and make a running stitch in a contrasting yarn or thread, outlining the center 4 inches.  Take care to make the running stitch stay in the same row or column.  If there was no shrinkage, this will probably be 1 inch in from each edge. If there was shrinkage, it will be something less than an inch.  Then, simply count the stitches inside of the contrasting color both for rows and stitches.  This is your gauge.  If it is different from the pattern’s gauge, you should adjust your needle or hook size and do another swatch until you get a swatch as close as you can to the pattern gauge.  If you are unable to come close, then the yarn that you are using may not be appropriate for that given pattern in some circumstances. 

If it is only the row count that varies, you may be able to just increase or decrease the rows in some instances on a project without much shaping, but be wary of areas such as V-necks, armholes and neck edges which may be out proportion without some calculations on your part. If the width is not close enough, you may be able to add more or less stitches.  However, you must be careful on a pattern stitch that you add or subtract in multiples of the repeat.  The stitches in the repeat may be stated, but if not, the amount may not always be obvious.  Again, you will have to do calculations on your own when doing shapings.  Until you become experienced in your craft, it is much easier to just ensure that you are obtaining the correct gauge rather than attempt calculations.

Still don’t want to wait?  Here’s the solution.  For your project right now, choose something where the gauge is not important.  This is anything not requiring a good fit.  You may choose an afghan, a scarf, or some decoration for your home.  Before you begin making this first project, do a swatch for your second project, or the next couple projects.  Then you will be able to get started right away on the scarf and have your gauge ready for your sweater or other fitted garment by the time you finish your scarf. Just be sure to jot down what size needles or crochet hooks were used on the swatch.  Safety pin this information directly onto the swatch so that it does not get lost. If you are using a stitch that you might do again with the same yarn, say a stockinet stitch on Brand X baby yarn, you may consider saving that swatch in a sewing kit to save time for the next project.  This can only be done if you will be using the exact same brand and type of yarn.  It is still better to do another gauge, but at least you should be able to guess the correct size needles or hook the first time.

Good luck!  If you have any questions or comments on this procedure, please send me an e-mail.

Enjoy your project,

Linda Hamilton